This place offers various surfer shops and outlets all about surfing you will find surf tours and stores where you can learn or hire boards and wetsuits.Cost 25$ per day or the place where we had to go after the shop was closed 25$ for 2h or 35$ for 3h, wetsuit included.
The beginners always get longboards/ softboards first as it is easier to stand up on them.
However it is more difficult to go underneath a wave with them, this way I was struggling getting further out in the sea. Surfers always go further out as the ocean is more calm and there are not always waves coming so you can rest and wait a little bit on your board. Diving underneath a wave is an important exercise in order to save energy and that bigger waves can't drag you bavk to the beach.
Finally reaching the spot where the waves start to come up I could feel it already in my arms that this involves a lot mote training.
Starting to ride: Once you see a wave building up you have to paddle as fast as possible in the direction where the beach and as soon as you can feel it is breaking you try to stand ip as quickly as possible on your board.
For the very start I was too much at the front of the board so I imediately made a "nose dive" into the water. The worst feeling is it when a 3-4m wave comes towards you and it breaks right on top of you as it feels like you got in a washing machine and it will take you all the way with it. Not only scarry but dangerous and painful apart from the 100L of salt water you swallow. Yak*bfff
It is also good if you bring a waterproof watch with you as you have no sense of time when you are out there.
Today wasn't the sunniest day and it was raining once in a while as well, but the best conditions for surfers and massive waves.
I guess there were around 30-50 surfers out on the same beach as the conditions where really good. I even go the chance to talk to a few of them and they gave me some advice and sometimes even helped me to catch a wave.
I even managed to stand up once as it is more difficult than kt looks and the fact that I'm a really good snowboarder doesn't help me here at all as it is a completely different feeling.
You are constantly aware that you have to stand on water and the wobble feeling when you try to get up doesn't help at all.
Now I know why surfers always have a great body as it trains every single muscle and you get a lot of endurance in general. Great exercise and a lot of fun even if you are a beginner.
The wetsuit ks very important when you are longer out in the water even if it isn't that cold as it will keep you warm and I recomment a long leg&sleeve one for the beginning as you spend a lot of time out there without even realising.
After 2h and no rest out in the sea I felt really thirsty and my hands felt like there were falling of haha* BUT I got to ride 2 waves and standing up as well*wuhu*
I guess it's just all about practising, practising and again practising when it comes to surfing so you will get a feeling for the waves and how to stand up on them.
As soon as I got home I could feel my rips and my chest hurting with every movement I made*haha* good luck to me tomorrow when the really aching muscles start showing up.
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